Winter tramping in New Zealand: Magical or miserable?

Scrambling through the forest of red beech trees, overlooking Te Anau Basin, Takitimu Mountains, and the Snowdon and Earl Mountains, I saw the Luxmore Hut glistening in the winter sun. Trudging through the snow-covered ridge with lakes Te Anau and Manapouri on each side, I heard nothing except the rhythmic sound of my breathing and the dampened snow crunch of my footsteps. There was no one within earshot.

The entire Kepler Track is not a safe choice for a winter hike, considering the multiple avalanche-crossing paths, but an overnight trip to Luxmore Hut may be an option. The track to Luxmore Hut, which I’d hiked during summer, was completely unfamiliar in winter.

In summer, it was busy with trampers and bustling. But hiking in early June, surrounded by the stark and serene landscape under the snowy blanket, absolute stillness, and an absence of fellow hikers, I was immediately hooked on winter tramping.

Irrespective of chilly, wintery shorter days and often soggy tracks, I’m drawn to winter tramping, mostly because of the wonderland scenery coupled with the added challenge that comes with manoeuvring snow-drenched tracks and frozen rock slabs, from keeping warm enough, to traversing and camping safely on snow, and navigating avalanche prone areas.

Heading into winter, tramping adventures might be quite daunting for most people, but it’s a rewarding experience with the proper knowledge and preparation. Here are some fundamental questions to ask yourself before you venture into the hills.

What is my tramping plan?

For me, the cardinal rule for winter tramping is properly planning my trip. Whether you’re heading out for a day hike or an overnight stay, planning is essential to estimate the length of the trip, distance, elevation as well as your own fitness level.

Depending on your location, seeking local knowledge from the closest DOC Visitor Centre can be beneficial. I always find DOC staff to have in-depth local knowledge and recommendations to plan a safe trip. If I can’t visit them, I’ll either give them a call or flick them an email.

What’s the weather forecast?

New Zealand’s weather is erratic, often having all four seasons in a day. Therefore, checking the weather forecast is paramount. I mostly use MetService, followed by the rural and mountain forecasts.

Remember, forecasts are just a prediction, therefore being vigilant about the changing weather conditions is imperative and making decisions accordingly. If your tramping plan involves avalanche-prone areas, then checking the MSC avalanche forecast platform can be beneficial in acquiring information on snowpack, avalanche concerns, and occurrences as well as the danger scale for the different regions.

Always carry a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) and a portable first-aid kit. They may be a lifesaver. PLBs can also be hired from the local DOC Visitor Centre or nearby outdoor outlets such as Macpac. Make sure you tell someone you trust about your intended plans including where you’re going and when should you be back.

Do I have the right gear and supplies?

Winter tramping is all about having the right gear and supplies – dressing in layers for breathability and heat retention. On the trail, I like to wear a base layer, followed by a down or synthetic insulating jacket. I always have an outer shell that’s both rain and windproof ready to go.

I also make sure to have spares, some extra layers of clothing, and essentials such as gloves and beanies. I’m a big proponent of using a dehydrated meal, especially on an overnight trip as they are dense with high-calorie nutrients and small enough to fit without taking much space. I’m also constantly munching on nuts and granola bars while tramping for refuelling.

For hydration, my 1L Nalgene bottle is always with me and serves as a hot water bag too for a warm sleep. My vacuum-insulated mug is a good splurge, especially for sipping hot chocolates in the evening or coffee in the morning. And for the footwear, my La Sportiva boot has been a savior; they are stiffer, have a good edge on the sole, and are lightweight too.

Here’s a pro tip: make sure to compartmentalise your tramping gear on a packing cube, and pack all of them into a thick waterproof plastic liner, or a double layer of a rubbish bag works for overnight tramp. I’ve learned this lesson the hard way, as there’s nothing worse than reaching your hut only to find a wet gear. Also, make sure to print out the map as the phone can be quite problematic running out of batteries.

Do I need all the technical gears for this tramp?

Technical gear such as ice axe, snowshoes, and crampons is tailored for specific tramping adventures. So, while planning, it is essential to assess whether you’ll be needing these gears. During most winter tramps, I carry my micro spikes which have been helpful for providing traction in icy conditions. My tramping poles are the other essential gear for maintaining balance on slippery routes. Snow gaiters, besides keeping your lower legs warm, can keep snow out of your boots. Always make sure to carry an extra battery for your torch for the fewer daylight hours and for the longer nights, especially at the huts.

What are my limits?

Knowing your limits and planning your trip within your abilities can help yield a safe and comfortable trip. The wonderful thing about New Zealand tramping is that there is a track for everyone, from beginners to experienced.

Before you venture off, make sure the track is well-selected, and most importantly suitable for you.

And it’s always important to remember that it’s okay to turn around if you are in doubt of your limits and unexpected track conditions; it’s all part of the journey.

Wherever you go, follow the New Zealand Land Safety Code to ensure a safe and enjoyable adventure:

1. Choose the right trip for you: learn about the route and make sure you have the skills for it.

2. Understand the weather: it can change fast. Check the forecast and change your plans if needed.

3. Pack warm clothes and extra food: prepare for bad weather and an unexpected night out.

4. Share your plans and take ways to get help: telling a trusted friend your trip details and taking a distress beacon can save your life.

5. Take care of yourself and each other: eat, drink and rest, stick with your group and make decisions together.

For more, download the Plan My Walk app or go to the NZ Mountain Safety Council’s website.