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VANESSA LAURIE/Stuff
Haukai Bistro & Bar executive chef Richard Ponder and the entree inspired by the humble boil-up.
REVIEW: Coming together for kai is one way we can celebrate Puanga with whānau and friends.
At Haukai Bistro & Bar, in the Novotel Ngāmotu, they have delivered a special menu to mark the Māori New Year, which more than ably transforms the flavours of boil-up, hāngī, traditional herbs and even fried bread into dishes that look nothing like them, but completely retain their humble earthy flavours.
Executive chef Richard Ponder and head chef Vickram Zacharia are the brains behind the three-course dinner menu, where the flavour hits are an equal match to the innovation used to create them.
Elements like a taro gratin, bone marrow walnut crumb or carrot mandarin snow will get you thinking well before the plate arrives at the table.
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In my case, I was so curious about how the snow side dish would taste, that I went straight for that first.
It provided a fresh, citrusy hit of crispness, paired alongside generous slivers of smog glazed duck breast, fennel, mint and pickled beetroot.
It was dish Ponder said had been inspired by the maara kai – the garden.
Puanga is traditionally a time to clear out the garden beds to prepare them for planting, and such a reference signals a clear intention there is a deeper level to these dishes beyond what they look like.
VANESSA LAURIE/Stuff
Referencing the maara kai, or garden, as inspiration, this dish is all about freshness, including the citrus hit from the carrot mandarin snow.
Another element important to the tradition of Puanga is fire, which has been put to good effect across the menu choices too, from the burnt celeriac accompaniment, to the hint of heat in the horopito and white chocolate panna cotta dessert.
Ponder, who is learning te reo Māori, takes the mātauranga, or knowledge, gleaned from his talks with kaumatua and experiences cooking kai at Parihaka to good effect.
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A bit of horopito heat gives this panna cotta the edge, along with a tasty side serving of bone marrow walnut crumb.
This is a meal with meaning.
Admittedly, the dish choices are not for the vegetarians and vegans amongst us, but it’s a showcase for local kai produced in Taranaki, as well as the talents of those in the kitchen too.
The three-course menu, for $69 per person, is available to order alongside the usual Haukai dinner choices from July 3-16.
VANESSA LAURIE/Stuff
The Haukai Bistro & Bar’s Puanga menu, featuring this lamb rump main with taro gratin on the side, is one for the meat lovers.
The option will take a break on the night of July 13, when a sold-out, five-course degustation meal for 60 people to celebrate Puanga will be held at the restaurant.
The event will be hosted by Taranaki Iwi chief executive Wharehoka Wano, who will also explain the significance of the star cluster to Māori.
The writer and photographer were guests of Novotel Ngāmotu for a tasting of the Puanga set menu.
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