A rare look inside the cockpit of the world’s most beautiful flight

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I’m sitting behind a pilot who has flown this approach thousands of times. But even after more than 40 years, you can tell Air Rarotonga’s chief pilot Munro Hockin still loves Aitutaki. It’s often called the most beautiful lagoon in the world, and from my seat in the cockpit, it’s easy to see why.

The island’s famous One Foot Island comes into view as we glide lower. Captain Munro points out some of his favourite parts of the lagoon as he disengages the autopilot, and takes the controls.

Aitutaki looks like a little slice of the Maldives, but it’s much closer to home. Air New Zealand operates codeshare flights with Air Rarotonga, meaning you can fly from Auckland to Aitutaki on one ticket, reaching paradise in two flights that take a total of six-and-a-half hours.

On a recent flight, we were given special access to the cockpit for landing to see what it’s like to make one of the world’s most beautiful approaches.

Approaching the lagoon – even on a cloudy day it’s still spectacular.

Brook Sabin/Stuff

Approaching the lagoon – even on a cloudy day it’s still spectacular.

The route

Rarotonga to Aitutaki, which is about 263 kilometres – or roughly the same flying distance from Wellington to Napier. We flew at 16,000 feet.

The plane

A 34-seat Saab 340B Plus, which had its first flight in 1995, making it almost 28 years old. The plane started its life with Japan Air Commuter before switching to Air Rarotonga in 2018.

We’re flying a Saab 340.

Brook Sabin/Stuff

We’re flying a Saab 340.

The airline has two Saabs, two Embraer EMB 110 and a new private-style jet that seats eight. Over more than 40 years, Air Rarotonga has carried more than two million passengers domestically and has recently launched international services to French Polynesia, also using the Saab we’re about to fly on.

The seat

Perhaps best described as a “retro-style regional seat”, they’re comfy and relatively spacious. There is one row of seats on the left, and two on the right. The seats have a 30” inch pitch, which is about what you get on Air New Zealand’s regional flights.

Time in the air

40 minutes, we took off five minutes early and arrived a few minutes ahead of time.

Comfort factor

Hopping aboard the flight was, at first, a little like a sauna with wings. The plane was almost full, and 30 of us were in a little tube without air conditioning. But as soon as the engines started, the air vents roared to life, and everything cooled down.

The plane had a single flight attendant, who did an exceptional job.

Brook Sabin/Stuff

The plane had a single flight attendant, who did an exceptional job.

The entertainment

Each passenger gets a copy of the free Escape magazine, which is an excellent little publication of things to do in the Cook Islands and it will more than fill the 40-minute flight.

The food

We had free coffee, tea and water – or snacks could be purchased for just a few dollars. A can of Heineken is just $5, and white and red wines are just $6.

The service

Easily one of the friendliest in the sky. Our cabin crew member, with a flower behind her ear, had a permanent smile and treated everyone aboard like family. The service was exceptional – the best I’ve ever had on a regional flight.

The landing

Air Rarotonga granted me access to the flight deck for landing, where I sat behind the pilots. Shortly after taking my seat, we started our gradual descent as Aitutaki’s lagoon came into view. We were flying on a Sunday, and Captain Munro explained it’s only in the past decade that flights operated on Sunday – it’s considered a day of rest in the Cook Islands. To respect that, the plane stays away from villages on the island during its Sunday services to minimise noise.

We approached the lagoon from the southern side, flying over One Foot Island, which is where most people head for a day trip – it’s arguably the most beautiful island in the lagoon.

Despite the weather being a little cloudy, the lagoon was a stunning shade of vivid blue – even more beautiful than the Maldives and similar to Bora Bora.

One Foot Island, on the right, is a popular attraction on the island. It’s only reached by boat.

Brook Sabin/Stuff

One Foot Island, on the right, is a popular attraction on the island. It’s only reached by boat.

We made a few gentle turns, before our approach to Aitutaki Airport, which was originally constructed by the United States and New Zealand militaries during World War II. Around 2004, the old coral runway was replaced by a new asphalt runway that’s almost as long as Wellington’s.

Captain Munro guides us in for a landing, as we pass overwater rooms near the end of the runway, and within minutes we’re stepping off the plane into paradise.

The airport

Every single passenger is greeted by a member of Cook Islands Tourism to see if you require any assistance. It’s exceptional service.

The airport is also great for departures, full of interesting information about the Coral Route, which was an island hop from Auckland to Papeete in the Solent flying boats. The highlight for many was landing in Aitutaki’s tropical lagoon, and the terminal is rich in information about this once-famous stop.

The approach to Aitutaki.

Brook Sabin/Stuff

The approach to Aitutaki.

The frequency

Air Rarotonga flies three to four times daily from Rarotonga to Aitutaki. The Aitutaki Day tour is a popular way to see the island if you don’t have time to stay. It involves a morning flight from Rarotonga, a six-hour cruise, snorkelling, a beach bbq lunch, and a return flight in the evening. From $493 per person. See: airraro.com

The essentials

Flights from Auckland to Aitutaki can be booked through Air New Zealand, or directly at airraro.com.

The author’s trip was supported by Cook Islands Tourism. See: cookislands.travel

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