Climbers who died on Taranaki Maunga in night-time climb ‘not adequately prepared’ – report

Two Christchurch climbers who died on Taranaki Maunga in 2021 chose a dangerous route and were not adequately prepared for the conditions encountered in the night-time climb, a report into their deaths has found.

The NZ Mountain Safety Council report, requested by coroner Ian Telford, said the pair chose a route that was discouraged by the Department of Conservation (DOC) due to the gradient and environmental conditions.

It also found their gear, including clothing, footwear and crampons were not suitable for the conditions, and evidence to suggest they did not have helmets or ice axes.

While it appeared the climbers had enough previous experience to climb Taranaki Maunga, they were not suitably prepared for a winter ascent and not equipped for the icy conditions on the upper reaches of the maunga.

The two climbers, who were friends and colleagues, both died from traumatic injuries sustained in a fall on Taranaki Maunga on May 4, 2021.

The climbers cannot be identified due to the coroner issuing a non-publication order of both the deceased’s names and any information that could identify the deceased at the request of their families.

The two men, from Christchurch, were in New Plymouth on a work trip. After work that day, they decided to attempt a night-time attempt of Taranaki Maunga before their return to Christchurch the following day.

The pair travelled to Dawson Falls car park, and at 6.30pm one of the climbers sent a text to his wife saying they had started their ascent, then at 9.23pm he sent another saying the pair had summited. However, shortly after at 9.45pm, emergency services received a call from one of the climbers saying the other had fallen a considerable distance and he could not see him. Then the call cut out.

Shortly before midnight, a rescue team located their bodies, about 300m down the mountain from where the call to emergency services was made. Due to dangerous weather conditions, the pair weren’t recovered from the maunga until two days later on May 6.

In a statement, Telford said the misperception of hazards on the mountain, known for its unique and unforgiving conditions, ultimately led to the deaths of the climbers.

Telford adopted the council’s report and its recommendations and hoped they would help prevent future mountaineering deaths on New Zealand’s mountains and tracks.

The recommendations included a warning that climbing Taranaki Maunga outside of the summer months required mountaineering skills and equipment.

“It should not be considered a tramp or hike when snow and ice are present… Always be prepared to turn around on your trip should you encounter conditions you weren’t expecting or prepared for.”

The council warned the mountain was very accessible in summer leading to it being underestimated.

“Trampers and climbers should recognise that Taranaki Maunga is a very serious mountain requiring solid planning and decision making at any time of year. They should also consider that due to its unforgiving terrain and exposure to the weather, any mistakes made have the potential for much more severe consequences. It’s no coincidence that it is the second most deadly mountain in New Zealand after Aoraki/Mt Cook.”

It also warned that having experience may not be sufficient to understand the unique challenges and conditions on Taranaki Maunga

“Seek information and advice from locals and take a cautious approach on your trip, setting decision making points to consider how experienced conditions compare to your expectations, and how the group is coping.”

It also said to ensure your footwear was appropriate for the objective you were undertaking. Choose crampons that suit your footwear, and both should match your objective.

“Crampons without front points are not typically suited to steep and slick terrain, especially when combined with flexible-soled footwear like trail running or hiking shoes. Make sure that you learn how to use equipment like crampons and an ice axe on a course, from a mentor, or from trusted friends or family before exposing yourself to highly consequential terrain.”

And it also warned that night climbing raised the difficulty level.

“It can be done safely and effectively, but requires skill, experience, and appropriate conditions. Thorough planning is required to ensure the weather and conditions won’t compound the challenges, as any issues encountered will be much harder to deal with. Climbers and alpine trampers should consider decisions around travelling in the dark with an increased level of caution, particularly in unfamiliar environments.”