NZ ski town face-off: Hanmer Springs vs Saint Arnaud

We’re on the hunt for New Zealand’s best ski town.

Do you prefer a busy resort town, brimming with people and apres-ski opportunities? Or prefer the quieter, off-the-beaten-track villages to unwind after a day on the slopes?

Stuff wants you to decide where the best ski town can be found in New Zealand.

We’re pitting some of the country’s most-loved hotspots against each other. All you have to do is vote for your favourite, and let us know what you love about it in the comments.

Once we have the top picks, we’ll let you come up with the grand winner.

Who will emerge victorious? A tiny town in the North Island? Or a bustling resort area in the South?

You be the judge.

Hanmer Springs

Where: The resort town of Hanmer is located 130km or 90 minutes’ drive away from Christchurch.

Population: Hanmer had an estimated population of 1120 as of June 2022.

Closest skifield: Hanmer Springs Ski Area is a 40-minute drive away from the resort town. The ski area on Mount St Patrick offers 52 hectares of skiable terrain for intermediate and advanced riders with around 10% of the footprint set aside for beginners. Three rope tows give access to groomed and off-piste runs, including the 800m poma lift, which is said to be the longest in the Southern Hemisphere.

History: The little township sits right on a fault line – between the cracks bubble the town’s famed healing waters. In te reo Māori, Hanmer Springs is Te Whakatakanga o te Ngārahu o te ahi a Tamatea, where the ashes of explorer Tamatea’s fire lay.

While Hanmer and its famed hot springs were later discovered by William Jones in 1859, the village is named after Thomas Hanmer, who landed in Lyttelton in the early 1850s. The land for the township was surveyed in the late 1870s and a bathhouse around the natural hot springs eventually began in 1884.

Why here: Steaming hot pools and an accessible ski field – it’s like an idyllic Swiss village. The ski area offers exceptional value for skiers and snowboarders: daily lift passes are $75 per adult, $35 for school-age children, or $140 for a family. Kids aged 10 and under are free with paying adults. Beds in the on-mountain Robinson Lodge start from $45 per night.

Any good apres-ski spots? There’s something for everyone in the village. Cosy up beside the fire with a drink at the restaurant inside Hanmer Springs Hotel, head to O’Flynn’s Irish Pub for cold pints and hearty fare, or visit Boulder Burgers for fast takeaways. No.31 Restaurant is another popular option.

Those heading back to Christchurch will find the nearby Waipara Valley is home to North Canterbury’s brilliant wine scene, best known for its superb pinot noir and riesling.

What to do if you don’t ski or board: All signs point to Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools. There’s a huge selection of pools within the complex, some with massage jets and cascading waterfalls, as well as hydroslides you can ride down on a two-person tube.

Hanmer Springs is full of short walks, including Conical Hill for stunning sunrise views, the Hanmer Waterfall Track for a half-day ramble, and pram-friendly Fairy Door Walk for an outing with little ones. More than 80km of mountain biking trails sit right on the town’s doorstep, while further adventure activities include jet boating, quad bike tours, and bungy jumping from the main bridge.

Saint Arnaud

Where: Saint Arnaud (previously Rotoiti) is a small alpine village at the northern end of Lake Rotoiti and west of the St Arnaud Range in the Nelson-Tasman district. It is just over one hour from both Nelson and Blenheim.

Population: St Arnaud had a population of 111 at the 2018 census, an increase of 6 following the 2013 national survey.

Closest skifield: Operated by the Rainbow Sports Club, Rainbow Ski Area is 17km from the State Highway 63 turnoff, with a shuttle service running visitors from the base carpark. It is around 40 minutes’ drive from St Arnaud village and 90 minutes from Nelson and Blenheim.

The ski area on the eastern side of the St Arnaud Range has a combination of ski lifts, T-bars, and tow-ropes, taking skiers and boarders between beginner, intermediate and advanced runs. The top lift elevation is 1760m. Facilities include ski and snowboarding equipment and clothing rental, plus a snowsports department for lessons.

History: According to Māori legend, the Nelson Lakes are the eye-sockets of the giant octopus Muturangi, which great explorer Kupe fought to save his fishing grounds. Lakes Rotoiti and Rotoroa are linked to the Uruaokapuarangi waka which arrived from Hawaiki around 850 AD.

St Arnaud takes its name from Jacques Leroy de Saint-Arnaud, a French general in the Crimean War. The village caters to visiting tourists looking to explore the alpine terrain. The centre has a general store, petrol station, camping facilities and accommodation for trampers.

Why here: It is a launching pad for the surrounding lakes and mountains in the Nelson Lake National Park. The ski area boasts wide uncrowded slopes for beginner and intermediate skiers and boarders. Advanced can challenge themselves across jumps and drops. The ski area has a community vibe, making it very family friendly.

The ski season typically runs from around July through September – and new snow making equipment now means that the ski area can pad its trails with additional snow.

Any good apres-ski spots? The on-mountain cafe at Rainbow Ski Area is fully licensed if you fancy a tipple after your run.

In the St Arnaud centre grab hot fish and chips from the Alpine Village Store, or sit down for delicious modern European cuisine, including warming chowders and fresh pizzas, at the Alpine Lodge Restaurant and Bar.

What to do if you don’t ski or board: Recreational outdoor activities are the big draw for visitors, including tramping, trout fishing, water-skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, and boating – you’ll never be short of things to do. Be sure to visit the family of friendly eels who mingle around the jetty. Catch a water taxi one-way to complete the Lake Rotoiti Circuit in a day and get your legs working on the 9km Mount Robert Circuit. The NZ Antique & Classic Boatshow is a highlight on the boating and events calendar.

Which is your favourite ski town? Vote in the poll above and let us know why in the comments.