Shock demotion for Wellington’s Hiakai in this year’s Cuisine Good Food Awards

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Zennon Wijlens of Herne Bay fine diner Paris Butter has been named Chef of the Year in this year’s Cuisine Good Food Awards.

Wiljens joined Paris Butter as sous chef in 2019 and earlier this year bought into the business, becoming head chef and co-owner.

The restaurant also added a hat this year, becoming one of just six restaurants in the country to hold a maximum three hats.

Cuisine editor Kelli Brett said it was time to recognise Paris Butter, which opened in 2016, “for its hard work, dedication to local produce and sustainability, and in particular a fearless approach to crafting its art”.

Wellington stalwart Logan Brown also gained a third hat, sitting alongside Auckland restaurants Cocoro and Sid at the French Cafe, Napier’s Pacifica and Amisfield, in Queenstown, each of which retained three hats.

In a surprise move, renowned Wellington restaurant Hiakai, the owner and head of which, Monique Fiso, was last year’s Chef of the Year, has been relegated to two hats.

Hiakai retained its Specialist Restaurant of the Year title in 2023.

Amisfield was named Restaurant of the Year and its executive chef Vaughan Mabee handed the innovation award both for the second year in a row at an event held at Bar 21 in Auckland’s SkyCity on Monday night.

Lead judge Kerry Tyack said Mabee, known to many as a judge on MasterChef NZ, “remains at the top of his game, delighting us with his theatre of food delivery and executing a near faultless and daring dance of innovation putting Kiwi food firmly on the global culinary stage”.

Elsewhere, Auckland’s culprit was named Metropolitan Restaurant of the Year, while Napier’s Central Fire Station took the gong for Regional Restaurant.

Viaduct spot Hello Beasty won Casual Dining Restaurant of the Year, Black Estate in Waipara, North Canterbury, took Winery Restaurant of the Year, and Floridita’s, in Wellington, won Long-Term Player of the Year.

Chris McKeen/Stuff

Peter Gordon loves his local – the Thai Streetfood restaurant in the Wynyard Quarter

Celebrity chefs Peter Gordon and Ben Bayly won the Food Legend and Champion for Change awards, respectively.

The awards announcement comes two weeks after Cuisine released its 2023 Good Food Guide, listing what it considers to be the 250 best restaurants in Aotearoa.

It has been a tumultuous few years for the Cuisine Good Food Awards, considered the most prestigious in the country. Covid-19 prevented the awards from going ahead at all in 2020, while Auckland’s lengthy 2021 lockdown saw them split in two for the 2021/22 year. They were last held, by virtual ceremony, in February 2022.

“If ever there were a time for you to spend your dollars supporting restaurants across our beautiful country that deliver outstanding experiences it’s now,” said Brett. “Our hatted restaurants and category winners for 2023/2024 are absolutely at the top of their game.”

Amisfield in Central Otago has won Restaurant of the Year for the second year running.

Amisfield Restaurant & Cellar Do

Amisfield in Central Otago has won Restaurant of the Year for the second year running.

The full list of category awards for the Cuisine Good Food Awards 2023:

American Express Restaurant of the Year: Amisfield – Lake Hayes, Queenstown

Cuisine Chef of the Year: Zennon Wijlens – PARIS BUTTER – Auckland

Pead Food Legend: Peter Gordon – Homeland – Auckland

NIWA-Haku Kingfish Champion for Change: Ben Bayly – Ahi, Origine, The Grounds – Auckland; Aosta, Little Aosta, Blue Door Bar, The Bathhouse – Queenstown

Specialist Restaurant of the Year: Hiakai – Mount Cook, Wellington

Greenstone Creek Metropolitan Restaurant of the Year: Culprit – Auckland

Leefield Station Regional Restaurant of the Year: Central Fire Station Bistro – Napier, Hawke’s Bay

Ōra King Salmon Innovation Award: Vaughan Mabee – Amisfield – Queenstown

Casual Dining Restaurant of the Year: Hello Beasty – Auckland

The Alchemist’s Table Winery Restaurant of the Year: Black Estate – Waipara Valley, North Canterbury

Kenwood Restaurant Personality of the Year: Poi Eruera – Odette’s Eatery and Hugo’s Bistro – Auckland

Hotel Room Service of the Year (NEW in 2023): Hilton – Auckland

Long-Term Player of the Year: Floriditas – Wellington

Pastry Chef of the Year: Lisa Crowe – SkyCity – Auckland

Rising Talent – One to Watch: Neil Sapitula – Solera – Mount Maunganui, Bay of Plenty

Luxury Lodge Chef of the Year (NEW in 2023): Paul Froggatt – The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs – Matauri Bay, Northland

Sommelier & Wine Experience of the Year (the addition of the focus on Sommelier is new for 2023): Andrea Martinisi – The Grove – Auckland

Drinks List of the Year: Teresa – Napier, Hawke’s Bay

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