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Chris McKeen/Stuff
Daniel Cruden is one of the bosses behind The Real Bread Project, which operates out of Helensville.
There’s so much more to a city than its centre. The best way to uncover a destination’s hidden gems is to hit the suburbs. In this series, we shine a spotlight on some of New Zealand’s must-visit neighbourhoods, looking at where the locals eat, drink, and play.
West Auckland’s Helensville might only be home to just over 3000, but the cute community village punches well above its weight when it comes to culinary offerings and active tourism between its rural outskirts and harbour, from scenic cruises to the highest tandem skydive in the country.
How to get there: Head northwest from Auckland along State Highway 16/Twin Coast Discovery Highway and 45 minutes later you’ll arrive in this town on the southern edge of the Kaipara Harbour nestled into the Kaipara River. Carry on and you’ll reach the settlement of Kaukapakapa before looping back to Silverdale and State Highway 1.
Best known for: A trip to Helensville usually means a visit to the natural thermal pools three kilometres to the west in neighbouring Parakai, but the town centre is proving itself as something of a culinary powerhouse.
Local landmark: The Kaipara River winds through the town and into the Kaipara Harbour, the largest harbour in the Southern Hemisphere. The area around the township was once called Te Awaroa, or ‘The Valley of the Long River’, and was home to early Māori settlements.
Today, the town’s main streets line the riverbank, with star attractions including the historic bright-yellow post office built in 1911 – or the ‘Brokenwood Police Station’ from TV series Brokenwood Mysteries – and the Helensville Railway Museum. The Helensville Riverside Walkway is an easy one-kilometre stroll along the riverbank.
Pamela Wade/Stuff
This home at Kaipara Coast Plant Centre by Matt Liggins is made from 9783 plastic bags.
What to do: Harbour cruising, horse riding, vineyard hopping – you’re spoiled for choice here. Kaipara Harbour Cruises (kaiparacruises.co.nz) runs four-hour tours exploring the river systems and inner harbour on the 17m MV Kewpie Too. Two-day itineraries retrace the old steamer and sailing ship routes between Helensville and Dargaville.
Parakai Springs (parakaisprings.co.nz) is a popular attraction for visitors with its two hydro slides, heated open-air pool, balmy indoor pool, private spas and exclusive adults-only pool. It’s open 365 days of the year.
You can buy shrubs, seeds and compost at the Kaipara Coast Plant Centre and also walk between 40 sculptures scattered throughout the expansive gardens. The display changes every spring.
supplied
Parakai Springs is open 365 days of the year.
Skydive Auckland (skydiveauckland.com) offers the highest tandem skydive in the country, giving thrillseekers an opportunity to take in the view of both New Zealand’s east and west coasts from 20,000 feet – plus an 85-second freefall.
Tasman Rides (tasmanhorserides.co.nz) offers one- to two-hour treks through 140 hectares of farmland, 2600 hectares of forestry and along 60km of rugged West Coast beach. Woodhill Forest (woodhillforest.co.nz) can also be easily accessed from Helensville for mountain biking, tree climbing, paintball, four-wheel driving.
Where to eat: The Butcher Baker is the restaurant on everyone’s lips. Owned by chef Reginaldo Richard, Helensville’s newest eatery serves an ever-changing menu of farm-to-plate cuisine cooked by woodfire. It is open six days for brunch and lunch and select evenings for seasonal à la carte dishes alongside craft beer and natural wine (thebutcherbaker.co.nz).
Daniel Cruden’s The Real Bread Project (facebook.com/realbreadproject) grinds its own flour from local wheat to create its signature sourdough. Loaves of the crisp and delicious bread are available in several varieties – from kūmara to olive – while the cabinet is stocked with all means of viennoiseries from white chocolate doughnuts to apricot danishes and lemon meringue cruffins.
In the beautiful resorted rail station is Ginger Crunch Cafe (facebook.com/GingerCrunchStationCafe) which serves reliable homemade baking and filled rolls alongside fresh brewed tea and coffee.
Joseph Wood of Liberty Brewing and his beer Alpha Dogg.
Where to drink: If you’re looking for a cold frosty one you can’t look past the award-winning Liberty Brewing on Mill Road. Joseph and Christina Wood’s brewing outfit has gained a legendary reputation in the beer industry thanks to their whopping flavours.
The pair’s cosy taproom is located just across the road from the brewery so visitors will find only the freshest brews on tap, including the 2022 NZ Beer Award-winning Citra Imperial IPA, plus crowd favourites like Knife Party American IPA, and Darkest Days oatmeal stout.
West Auckland wine country (wineriesoutwest.co.nz) is a short hop from the centre of Helensville, where some wineries have been producing for over 100 years.
Dave Mackay / Phototek.nz/Western Leader
The Helensville A&P Show will celebrate its 120th year in 2024.
Events: The much-loved Helensville A&P Show (helensvilleshow.co.nz) was scheduled to celebrate its 120th anniversary in February but was cancelled due to flooding at the showgrounds. Organisers say the event will be back for the celebration in 2024.
Know a suburb we should spotlight? Send your suggestions to travel@stuff.co.nz.
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